Pattern Overview
Sewing Level | beginner |
Age Level | kids and adults |
Sewing Time | an afternoon |
Skills Practiced | quilting, seam allowances, adding a lining, edgestitching, and finger pressing |
Finished Measurements | 7.5” wide x 18” tall |
I created this stocking pattern especially for kids learning how to sew, but adults will love making it too! The minimal silhouette and simple construction method makes it perfect for beginners, while the quilted exterior builds confidence and produces a one-of-a-kind heirloom to cherish for years to come.
The name of the pattern represents the sincere (earnest, genuine, full of feeling) self-expression I witness in my students’ sewing projects. The name is also a nod to Sincere Studio, a non-profit sewing studio in Portland, Oregon, that provides inclusive and financially accessible sewing classes and services to our community. Please consider donating money or supplies to support their mission.
If you’d like in-person support and instruction, please sign up for my classes at Modern Domestic or contact me to schedule a private lesson. Terms that are bolded and highlighted are defined in my Sewing Glossary post.
Download PDFs of the pattern here:
Sincere-Stocking-Pattern.pdf64.4KB
Sincere-Stocking-Instructions.pdf3652.2KB
Pattern Use Guidelines
Sincere Stocking Pattern © 2024 by Aliya Hoff-Vanoni is licensed under CC BY 4.0
This means you can distribute the pattern, adapt it to fit your needs, and sell products made using this pattern as long as you provide proper credit! You can copy and paste the sentence above, or write something like: I used the Sincere Stocking Pattern by Aliya Hoff-Vanoni of extradisciplinary. Depending on how you are sharing your work, you might provide a link to this webpage, a link to the Threadloop Pattern Page and my Threadloop Profile, and/or tag @extradisciplinary and use the hashtag #SincereStocking on Instagram.
Feel free to contact me with any questions about these guidelines or if you’d like me to teach a workshop using this pattern.
Printing Instructions
The PDF pattern consists of four pages that can be printed at home on US Letter or A4 size paper. Using Adobe Acrobat Reader, Preview, or a similar PDF software, print the pattern at “Actual Size” or 100% Scale. Do not select any “Fit” or “Scale to Fit” options. Print the first page only and measure the 2 x 2 inch (3 x 3 cm) test square to confirm that the scale is correct, then print the remaining pages.
Assembling the Pattern
Each page has two margin lines with light gray triangles that are lettered for aligning adjacent pages. Cut off or fold the right and bottom margins of each page (if applicable). Match the triangles with the same letter so they form diamonds and tape, glue, or sew the tiled pages together, following the layout below. Alternatively, you can use a window or light box to align the margin lines and triangles—no folding necessary. Cut out the assembled pattern piece.
Need Help?
Gather Your Supplies
- 1/2 yard holiday quilting cotton, Essex (cotton linen blend), or similar weight woven fabric for the outside (main fabric).
- I used metallic quilting cottons from the Cotton + Steel Tinsel on the Trail collection by Ash Cascade for both stockings and simply switched the main and lining fabrics. The white fabric is Poinsettia in Mistletoe and the red fabric is Starlight in Cranberry.
- 1/2 yard of holiday quilting cotton, Essex (cotton linen blend), or similar weight woven fabric for the lining.
- 1/2 yard of flannel, low or medium loft batting, or fusible fleece to add loft during quilting
- I use flannel instead of batting in my sewing classes for kids because it’s easier to sew on. I also add a lining to quilted projects instead of binding the raw edges with bias tape because I’ve found bias binding can be discouraging for total beginners.
- I’ve made this project on my home machine using low-loft batting with no issues. If you find it difficult to quilt your stocking with just two layers (i.e., with batting in direct contact with the sewing machine’s feed dogs), you can add a backing of lightweight cotton, such as muslin or quilting cotton. You can still add a lining to enclose the seams—no bias binding necessary.
- 1 spool of thread that matches or contrasts with your main fabric (you will have visible quilting lines). Optional: thread that matches your lining fabric.
- Optional: 8” length of 1” wide twill tape to use as a hanging loop if you choose not to make one out of your fabric.
Helpful Tools and Notions
- A fresh sewing machine needle (my favorite all-purpose needles are Schmetz Microtex 80/12; universal needles also work great)
- Regular presser foot or walking foot
- Edgestitch presser foot
- Fabric marker, chalk pen, or other temporary fabric marking tool that shows up on your fabric (you can also make marks and creases with a butter knife or Hera marker)
- Ruler
- Scissors
- Optional: rotary cutter and cutting mat
- Sewing pins or clips (e.g., Clover Wonder clips or small binder clips) to hold fabric together
- Basting spray or quilting pins (I prefer curved safety pins)
- Point turner to turn corners inside out (you can also use a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil)
- Seam ripper
- Iron (optional): This pattern was made with kids in mind, so the instructions call for finger pressing seams. If you’re comfortable using an iron, feel free to press your seams with an iron instead.
Cut Your Fabric
- Using the pattern piece you assembled above, cut out two mirrored stocking pieces from BOTH the main and lining fabric (for a total of four pieces).
- The easiest way to do this is to fold your fabric in half so the selvedges touch. Check that the fold aligns with the lengthwise grain and the fabric is not skewed. Smooth out any wrinkles, then place your pattern piece on your fabric, aligning the grainline on the pattern piece with either the lengthwise or crosswise grain of the fabric. If your fabric has a directional print, ensure that the stocking is facing your desired orientation. Use scissors or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat to cut out fabric pieces.
- If you choose to cut from a single layer of fabric, be sure to flip over the pattern piece before cutting out the second stocking piece so it mirrors the first (the stocking toes should point in opposite directions).
- If you are making the hanging loop out of fabric, cut a 3.5” wide x 8” long rectangle from your main fabric and a 1” wide x 8” long strip from your flannel, batting, or fusible fleece.
- If you are making the hanging loop out of twill tape, cut a piece that is 8” long.
- Lay your pattern piece on top of your flannel, batting, or fusible fleece and cut out a rough stocking shape that is about 1” larger on all sides of the pattern piece. This will give you extra room to work if your fabric shifts while quilting. You’ll trim off the excess later. Repeat this step, being sure to mirror the pattern piece if you are using fusible fleece with a right and wrong side.
You should now have three mirrored stocking pairs—one pair each in your main and lining fabrics and a slightly larger pair in your flannel or batting. You should also have the materials for your hanging loop: either a rectangle of main fabric and a strip of batting OR a piece of twill tape.
Quilt the Exterior
Unless otherwise noted, sew all seams using a 2.5 mm long straight stitch and a 1/2” seam allowance.
- Lay your stocking pieces in your main fabric right side up and draw in your quilting lines (if desired) using a chalk pencil or fabric pen. You can also make creases using a Hera marker or butter knife.
- Quilting design ideas: vertical, horizontal, or diagonal lines; squares, diamonds, waves, squiggles, or circles.
- Quilting adds interesting texture to your object. The stitch lines you add will create low points (like valleys) and cause the fabric around them to look puffier (like hills). If there is a design on the fabric I want to highlight, I will usually quilt around it—not on top of it—to make it stand out.
- The closer your lines are together, the stiffer the stocking will feel (and vice versa). Not sure where to start? Try about 2” between your quilting lines.
- For the white stocking, I first quilted parallel lines that were 1.5” apart across the entire stocking. To create diamonds, I added a second set of parallel lines (the same distance apart) that intersected the first set at the angle I liked (about 110°).
- For the red stocking, I followed the design of the fabric. Since I wanted to accentuate the gold stars and dotted lines, I quilted on every other dark red line between them. My quilting lines are about 2” apart intersect at right angles to form squares.
- If you don’t want to plan out your quilting lines in advance, you can just wing it!
- Baste your exterior fabric to your flannel or batting using spray adhesive or quilting pins. The right side of your main fabric with the quilt markings should be facing up and you should have a ~1” border of extra batting around all sides of your fabric. If using pins, avoid placing them too close to your stitching lines so you don’t have to take them out while sewing.
- Sew your lines! Start with the lines that travel through the center of your fabric and work outwards, smoothing the fabric down and away from your previous stitch line as you go to keep it from bunching up. I like to start and end my stitch lines in the margin of excess batting so the backstitches aren’t visible on the finished piece.
- You can use a walking foot to help prevent the layers of fabric from shifting around.
- You can increase your stitch length (3.0–3.5 mm long) if desired. You can also experiment with decorative stitches!
- Once you’re finished quilting both main stocking pieces, trim away the excess batting material using scissors or a rotary cutter.
Sew the Side Seams
- Place the quilted main stocking pieces right sides together. Pin or clip the stocking together along the sides and bottom of the stocking, leaving the top edge open. Starting at one of the top corners, sew along the sides and bottom of the stocking using a 1/2” seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch line. Press the side seams open with your finger or an iron.
- Sewing around curves can be tricky as a beginner! The best thing to do is sew slowly. For shallow curves, you can gently guide the fabric with your fingers. For tighter curves, pivot your fabric as often as needed: stop sewing with your needle down in the fabric (but don’t cut your threads). Lift your presser foot, adjust the position of the fabric, then lower the presser foot and continue sewing. You can also use a fabric marker to draw in your seam allowance to use as a guide while sewing.
- To make it easier to turn the stocking right side out neatly, cut notches into the seam allowance of the outer (convex) curves, and clip into the seam allowance of the inner (concave) curves. Do not cut into your stitches! Alternatively, you can trim your seam allowance using pinking shears for a similar effect.
- Place the lining stocking pieces right sides together. Pin or clip the stocking together along the sides and bottom of the stocking, leaving the top edge open. Use a fabric marker to draw two marks that are 5” apart along the bottom of the stocking—this will be the gap that we eventually use to turn the stocking right side out.
- Starting at one of the top corners, sew along the side and bottom of the stocking using a 1/2” seam allowance until you reach one of the notches. Backstitch well, then cut your thread. Leaving a 5” gap in the bottom, start sewing at the next notch and continue until you reach the other corner. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch line. Press the side seams open with your finger or an iron.
- Notch and clip the curves as instructed above. If you choose to trim your seam allowance with pinking shears, leave the seam allowance fully intact at the turning gap so you have plenty of room to sew it closed later.
Attach the Hanging Loop
- If you are making the fabric hanging loop, lay the strip of batting on the wrong side of the fabric rectangle, aligning the long edge of batting strip with one of the raw fabric edges. Sew along the long edge using a 1/2” seam allowance.
- Fold the top edge with the batting strip towards the middle of the fabric until the right side of the fabric with the stitch line you just sewed is facing up. Press the other long edge of the fabric towards the wrong side 1/2,” then folded in half, bringing the folded edge to meet the far edge. Pin or clip in place. With the exception of the short edges, the batting strip should be fully wrapped in fabric and the raw edges of the fabric should be fully enclosed.
- Edgestitch along the fold to secure (remember to backstitch), then edgestitch along the other long edge.
- Fold the fabric hanging loop or the twill tape in half so that the short raw edges meet, wrong sides together (choose whichever side you like the look of the best to be the right side).
- Pin or clip the hanging loop to the right side of the quilted main stocking, centering the loop on the side seam of the heel side of the stocking. The raw edges of the loop should be aligned with the top raw edge of the stocking, and the loop should be pointing down. To reduce bulk, make sure the seam allowance of the stocking is pressed open.
- Sew the hanging loop to quilted main stocking, backstitching well over the loop for durability. Remember to keep the stocking seam pressed open. I like to sew on the hanging loop using a slightly smaller 3/8” seam allowance so that the stitches will be invisible after attaching the lining.
- I think it is easiest to turn the main stocking right side out before attaching the hanging loop, but you can also sew it on while the main stocking is still inside out (right sides together).
Attach the Lining
- Turn your quilted main stocking inside out. Turn the lining right side out and place it inside the quilted main stocking so that the right sides of the main and lining fabric are together and the toe of the lining is inside the toe of the main stocking. Ensure that the hanging loop is pointing down and sandwiched between the main and lining fabrics.
- Align the side seams of the main stocking and lining and pin or clip in place, keeping the seam allowances pressed open. Continue pinning or clipping around the top edge of the stocking, aligning the top raw edges of the main stocking and lining.
- Remove the tray from your sewing machine, place your stocking on the machine like a sock, and sew around the entire circumference of the top edge using a 1/2” seam allowance. Remember to backstitch or overlap the beginning and end of your stitch line to secure your stitches.
- Reach through the gap in the lining, grab the toe of the main stocking, and carefully pull the entire stocking through the opening until it’s right side out. Use a point turner, chopstick, or your finger to neatly push open the seams and stocking toe of the exterior and lining pieces.
- Before moving on, double check that the toes of the exterior and lining piece are pointing in the same direction!
- To close the hole in the lining, tuck the raw edges towards the inside of the lining, making neat folded edges. Pin or clip the folded edges in place and edgestitch the gap closed. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch line to secure your stitches.
Finish the Top Edge
- Push the lining down into the stocking. Adjust the stocking until the seam where the main and lining fabrics meet is right at the top edge of the stocking. Alternatively, you can push the lining a little farther down so that a small sliver of main fabric rolls towards the inside of the stocking—try both and see which look you prefer.
- Pin or clip around the top circumference of the stocking. This time, ensure that your hanging loop is pointing straight up and perpendicular to the top edge. Edgestitch around the entire top edge, remembering to backstitch or overlap the beginning and end of your stitch line (you can also backstitch over the hanging loop, if desired).
- If desired, you can switch the color of your bobbin thread to match the lining fabric. If you pushed your lining down from the top edge, use thread that matches your main fabric instead.
Final Touches
- Use small scissors to trim any thread tails.
- Remove any lingering marks from your chalk or fabric marker
- Celebrate!!!
Keep In Touch
Thanks very much for reading! If you have any questions, feedback, or corrections regarding the pattern, please don’t hesitate to contact me! I’d love to see what you make, so please tag me on Instagram and use the hashtag #SincereStocking. You can also find me and this pattern on Threadloop.
Further Reading
quilted trick-or-treat tote pattern
quilted trick-or-treat tote pattern
October 12, 2024
freesewingpatternkids
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