Pattern Overview

I created this pattern especially for kids learning how to sew. The backpack is scaled down to fit smaller bodies and it’s a wonderful project for beginning sewists since it doesn’t require an iron and only takes an afternoon to make.

Feel free to reach out with any questions. If you’d like in-person support and instruction, please sign up for my class at Modern Domestic or contact me to schedule a private lesson. Terms that are bolded and highlighted are defined in the Glossary at the end of the post.

Gather Your Supplies

• Two fat quarters (or 13” x 15” rectangles) of quilting cotton, Essex (cotton linen blend), lightweight (~3–5 oz) canvas, or similar woven fabric. I’ve found that midweight canvas is a bit too stiff for small hands to easily cinch the drawstrings closed.
• I used quilting cotton with gummy bears from Kimberly Kight’s Sugar Cone Collection for Ruby Star Society for the front and purple Robert Kaufman Essex cotton linen blend for the back.
• If you’d like your bag to have more structure, I recommend applying a fusible interfacing like Pellon SF101 Shape Flex Fusible Interfacing to the wrong side of your lightweight fabric before sewing (requires an iron).
• If you would like to add a pocket to the exterior or interior of the bag, you’ll need an additional 8” x 9” rectangle of fabric per pocket. I recommend using an iron if you are planning to add a pocket.
• 4 yards (or two 2-yard lengths in different colors) of drawstring: I used braided cording.
• 2 drawstring tabs to secure the drawstrings at the bottom of the bag
• Easiest option: 6” of twill tape (approximately 1” wide)
• A bit more sewing involved: two 2.5” x 5” strips of fabric
• 1 spool of thread that matches your fabric (you will have visible topstitching)

Helpful Tools and Notions

• A fresh sewing machine needle (my favorite all-purpose needles are Schmetz Microtex 80/12; universal needles also work great)
• Regular presser foot
• Edgestitch presser foot
• Fabric marker, chalk pen, or other temporary fabric marking tool that shows up on your fabric (you can also make marks and creases with a butter knife or Hera marker)
• Ruler
• Scissors or rotary cutter and cutting mat
• Sewing pins or clips (e.g., Clover Wonder clips or small binder clips) to hold fabric together
• Point turner to turn corners inside out (you can also use a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil)
• Safety pin or bodkin to thread the drawstring
• Seam ripper
• Iron (optional): This pattern was made with kids in mind, so the instructions call for finger pressing seams. If you’re comfortable using an iron, feel free to press your seams and topstitching with an iron instead. You’ll want to use an iron if you’re planning to apply fusible interfacing or add a pocket.

Cut Your Fabric

• Cut out two 13” x 15” rectangles of fabric. If the fabric has a directional design, make sure it’s oriented with the design facing in direction you’d like according to the diagram below.
• If you are adding a pocket, cut out one 8” x 9” rectangle of fabric.
• If you are using fusible interfacing, apply it now.

• Cut your drawstring into two 2 yard lengths (each should be 72” long). You will trim them to your preferred length later.
• If using twill tape for your drawstring tabs, cut it into two pieces that are each 2.5” to 3” long.
• I cut my twill tape to 2.5” long to make a narrower channel. It requires a bit more patience to thread the drawstring but the knot is less likely to pull through over time. If you are using thicker drawstring, you might prefer to use longer 3” pieces to make a wider channel.
• If using fabric for your drawstring tabs, cut out two 2.5” x 5” strips.

Optional: Prepare the Pocket(s)

Finish the Pocket Edges

• Finish the side and bottom edges of your pocket so the fabric doesn’t unravel over time. You have three options:
• Trim the seam allowance using pinking shears or a pinking blade with your rotary cutter—this is fast and easy!
• Using a zigzag stitch on your machine, sew a line of stitches just inside the raw edges. Remember to switch back to regular straight stitches afterwards.
• If you have access to a serger, you can serge the edges.
• Fold the sides and bottom edges of your pocket 1/2” towards the wrong side of your fabric and press. You may finger press the edges, but your pocket will look neater if you use an iron.
• Fold the top of your pocket towards the wrong side of your fabric 1/2” and press, then fold it under another 1/2”. Pin or clip to secure the folded edge.
• Edgestitch the folded edge closed using a regular stitch length (2.5mm) or a slightly longer topstitching length (3.0 mm). Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end.

Attach the Pocket

• Lay out the rectangle of fabric you want to attach the pocket to. If you want the pocket to be on the outside of the bag, attach the pocket to the right side of the front fabric piece. If you want the pocket to be on the inside of the bag, attach the pocket to the wrong side of the back fabric piece.
• I recommend centering the pocket so it’s about 3” away from each side of the fabric. You can center the pocket vertically too, but I prefer to place the bottom of the pocket 2.5” from the bottom edge of the fabric so there’s more space between the top of the pocket and the drawstring casing. Pin the pocket in place.
• Edgestitch the pocket along the side and bottom edges using a regular stitch length (2.5mm) or a slightly longer topstitching length (3.0 mm). You will want to sew over the top edges of the pocket and backstitch back over the pocket edge at least once to secure it down.
• If you want to add pocket dividers, use your ruler and fabric marker to draw vertical lines on your pocket where you would like the pocket dividers to be. Starting at the bottom edge, topstitch along each line you drew using a regular stitch length (2.5mm) or a slightly longer topstitching length (3.0 mm). Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch line. You will want to sew over the top edge of the pocket and backstitch back over the pocket edge at least once to secure it down.

Optional: Make the Fabric Drawstring Tabs

• Fold each drawstring tab fabric in half like a hamburger (so the short edges meet) with right sides together. Sew along the short edges using a 1/2” seam allowance to create a loop. Press the seam open.
• Turn the loop right side out and adjust the fabric so that the seam is in the center. Fold the loop in half like a hot dog, hiding the seam inside. Pin or clip to secure.
• Edgestitch the folded edges closed using a regular stitch length (2.5mm) or a slightly longer topstitching length (3.0 mm). Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end.
• Repeat for the second tab.

Attach the Drawstring Tabs

• Lay out one rectangle of fabric right side up in the correct orientation. It doesn’t matter whether you use the front or back fabric piece.
• If you are using twill tape for your drawstring tabs, fold each piece of tape in half. Position the tape so the lower edge is 1.5” up from the bottom edge of the fabric. Align the raw edges of the twill tape with the raw edges of the fabric. The folded end of the tape should be pointing towards the middle of the fabric. Pin or clip to secure.
• If you are using the fabric drawstring tabs, position the tab so the lower edge is 1.5” up from the bottom edge of the fabric. Align the raw edges of the tab with the raw edges of the fabric. Pin or clip to secure.
• Increase your stitch length to 4 mm. Baste the drawstring tabs in place using a 1/2” seam allowance. Basting stitches are temporary, so no need to backstitch.
• Double check the fit of your drawstring before proceeding. Thread two ends of drawstring through the channel and tie an overhand knot.
• If the channel is too tight to thread the drawstring, increase the length of twill tape you use.
• If using the fabric tabs, try using a smaller, 1/4” seam allowance when sewing the first seam for a bit more room. If you need even more room for bulky drawstring, increase the length of the fabric rectangle: try 2.5” x 5.25” or 2.5” x 5.5” instead.
• If the channel is too large and the knot pulls through, first try adding a second knot. If that doesn’t work, try trimming your twill tape in small (0.25–0.5”) increments and basting again.
• If using the fabric tabs, extend the raw edges of the tab past the raw edge of the front fabric by 0.25–0.5” and try basting again. Trim the excess edge of the tab so the sides are flush.

Sew the Side and Bottom Seams

• Place the two fabric rectangles right sides of together. If the fabric has a directional design, make sure it’s oriented with the design facing the direction you’d like. Align the top, bottom, and side edges and then pin or clip to hold in place.
• Starting at one of the top corners, sew around the sides and bottom of the backpack using a 1/2” seam allowance, pivoting at each corner. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch line. You can also backstitch at each corner for additional durability.
• Clip your corners: cut off excess fabric at the corners to remove bulk and make the corners nice and neat when we turn it right side out. Leave a sliver (1/8–1/4”) of your seam allowance intact and be careful not to cut through any of your stitches!
• Finish the seams you just sewed so the fabric doesn’t unravel over time. You have three options:
• Trim the seam allowance using pinking shears or a pinking blade with your rotary cutter—this is fast and easy!
• Using a zigzag stitch on your machine, sew a line of stitches just inside the raw edges. Remember to switch back to regular straight stitches afterwards.
• If you have access to a serger, you can serge the edges.
• Press your side seams with your finger or an iron. If you finished the seams with pinking shears, press the side seams open. If you used a zigzag stitch or serger, press the seams towards the back of your backpack.

Create the Drawstring Casing

Finish the Top Edge

• With the backpack still inside out, fold down the top edge 2” towards the wrong side. Start at the side seams first to make it easier to create an even fold. Press with your fingers or an iron and pin or clip around the top edge to secure. Make sure that your side seams stay aligned and pressed open or towards the back depending on how you finished them.
• Fold the raw edge under 0.5” so that the drawstring casing is about 1.5” tall (measured between the two folded edges). Again, start folding at the side seams first to make it easier to create an even fold around the circumference. Press with your fingers or an iron and pin the folded edge in place so the raw edge is fully encased. Be careful that you don’t accidentally pin the bag closed!
• If desired, slide a cute label/tag under the folded edge and pin. I like to place mine in the center of the back piece of fabric so it’s visible whenever I open or close the bag.
• Remove the tray table of your sewing machine (if applicable) and slide your bag over the free-arm like a sock. Your bag should still be inside out. Beginning at one of the side seams, edgestitch the fold in place around the entire bag using a regular (2.5mm) stitch length or a slightly longer topstitching length (3.0 mm). Backstitch over the side seams for extra durability. If you are using an edgestitch presser foot, remember to adjust your needle position to the right. Check to make sure that the raw edge is not exposed anywhere before moving on.
• Turn the bag right side out and remove the pins/clips from the top edge. Press the top edge flat again if needed. Slide your bag over the free-arm like a sock again (this time right side out). Beginning at one of the side seams, edgestitch just below the top edge of the bag using a regular (2.5mm) stitch length or a slightly longer topstitching length (3.0 mm). Backstitch over the side seams for extra durability. If you are using an edgestitch presser foot, remember to adjust your needle position to the left.

Open Up the Drawstring Casing

• Now we need to create an opening for the drawstring. Using a seam ripper, carefully open up the side seams of the bag between the two lines of edgestitching you just sewed. Be careful that you:
• Only open up the side seam on the EXTERIOR of the bag, not the interior.
• DON’T seam rip through the two lines of edgestitching.

Thread the Drawstrings

• Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of your drawstring. Leaving a tail a few inches long, thread your drawstring up through the drawstring tab and into the opening you just made. Pull the drawstring around the entire circumference of the bag until the end comes out of the same hole it entered into. Pull the drawstring back down through the same drawstring tab and secure the ends using a loose overhand knot. Repeat on the other side.
• Even out the drawstrings. Put something inside the backpack and try it on. Adjust the length of the drawstrings until the backpack sits where you like it. Secure the ends with one or two overhand knots and trim any excess drawstring.

Final Touches

• Use small scissors to trim any thread tails.
• Remove any lingering marks from the fabric marker, if needed.
• Use a seam ripper to remove any visible basting stitches.
• Iron or sew on a cute patch!
• Celebrate!!!

Use Your Scraps!

• Use your fabric scraps to make a matching drawstring pouch! The construction is exactly the same, just leave off the drawstring tabs at the bottom of the bag.
• You’ll need another 48” of drawstring (two 24” lengths is usually a good starting point).
• If you want to make your bag a specific size, remember to add 1” to the width to account for the seam allowances and 2.5” to the height to account for the fold-over top and bottom seam allowance.
• If you have a long scrap of fabric, fold it in half and sew the sides—no need to sew a bottom seam! Note that if you have a directional print, it’ll be upside down on one side.

Keep In Touch

Thanks very much for reading! If you have any questions, feedback, or corrections regarding the pattern, please don’t hesitate to contact me! I’d love to see what you make, so please tag me on Instagram and use the hashtag #LilDrawstringBackpack. You can also find me and this pattern on Threadloop.

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