This post is one of several resources I created for students in my bag labs at Modern Domestic. Find the full series of posts for Klum House or Noodlehead bags.
Zipper Requirements
Klum House Bags
For your Klum House bag, you will need to source one or two #5 non-separating metal handbag zippers with a large hole in the pull to accommodate a leather accent (check your pattern for the required length).
Sourcing: I love the zippers that Klum House stocks—you can purchase them as part of a full kit or separately. Your local fabric shop should carry #5 metal zippers, but they may not have the exact size you need. In that case, buy a longer length and trim it to size.
Noodlehead Bags
Most Noodlehead bags with a main zipper enclosure call for a #4.5 non-separating nylon handbag zipper (check your pattern for the required length). I’d recommend using a nylon zipper because many of her patterns require trimming or sewing across the zipper coil/chain. Nylon zippers are also easier to attach along curves. Be sure to purchase a handbag zipper so you have a nice, wide zipper tape to work with.
Some patterns include an interior zipper pocket—for these you can use a fixed-length metal zipper if you prefer because the insertion method is a bit different (see below; you can also use a nylon zipper).
Sourcing: Your local fabric shop should carry nylon handbag zippers, either fixed-length or by the yard. If you can’t find the exact length, buy a longer zipper and trim it to size. PDX Sewlarium has a large selection of continuous nylon coil zippers locally. You can also order fixed-length zippers directly from Noodlehead.
Basic Zipper Closures
Video Tutorial
If you prefer to learn via video, Ellie from Klum House produces excellent YouTube tutorials as well as full-length online classes. The techniques in the video below can be applied to most bags. Skip to the next section if you prefer written instructions.
Written Instructions
- Fold the zipper in half and mark the center of the zipper tape with a pin. Fold the exterior fabric you will attach it to in half to find the center point and mark with chalk (if using waxed canvas, simply make a crease).
- Align the center points of the zipper tape and the exterior fabric and clip right sides together.
- Recall that the right side of a zipper is the side where the the teeth/elements, slider, and pull are visible. The zipper should be face down on the fabric.
- Sew the zipper to the exterior fabric using a 1/4” seam allowance. You will need to track how close your presser foot is to the zipper while ensuring that the zipper tape doesn’t pull away from the raw edge of the fabric.
- If you are using the correct zipper size, you will be stitching down the middle of the zipper tape. It’s okay if you are not exactly at 1/4”, but do your best to maintain a consistent seam allowance on both sides of the zipper so you have an even zipper tape reveal.
- You do not want to sew right next to the zipper teeth, or else the slider won’t move smoothly along the zipper.
- You have several options when it comes to which presser foot to use: a zipper foot, regular presser foot, walking foot, or a a quarter-inch patchwork foot. In all cases, your presser foot should be next to—not on top of—the zipper teeth and your needle should be adjusted to the left or right. All of the presser feet have markings to help you sew a 1/4” seam allowance in relation to your needle position.
- If you use a zipper foot, TRIPLE CHECK that your needle is moved to the left or right before you start sewing or you will demolish your needle.
- Don’t accidentally use an invisible zipper presser foot! They require a different insertion method.
- Some students working with waxed canvas or heavier fabrics struggle to sew with a zipper foot, especially at the beginning of a seam. A regular presser foot can provide more stability while sewing because the greater surface area of the foot advances the fabric through the machine more evenly. Similarly, a walking foot may be helpful when installing a zipper on bulky or slippery fabrics.
- Your bag pattern may instruct you to fold the ends of the zipper tape (the tape extensions) up at a right angle so they are flush with the top edge of the fabric—this will tuck the ends of the zipper inside of the bag for clean finish.
- You can start sewing with the zipper tape unfolded to secure the end so it doesn’t move around. Backstitch off zipper tape, fold down the edge, and then continue sewing. When you reach the end of the zipper, sew to the edge, do a larger backstitch than usual, fold up the edge, sew over the fold, and end with a small backstitch.
- The zipper slider distorts the zipper tape and will cause you to sew crooked stitch lines, so always move it out of the way when sewing.
- Ensure that your machine is set to stop with the needle down in the fabric (or use the hand wheel to set it in the fabric when you pause sewing). When you approach the slider, stop sewing with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and move the slider out of the way. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
- If the you can’t get the slider past the presser foot, lower the presser foot, backstitch, and then remove your work from the machine. Move the slider, then begin sewing again, starting with a backstitch.
Unlined Bags
- Repeat the steps above to sew the other side of the zipper tape to the second piece of exterior fabric.
- Finish the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or serger to keep the fabric and zipper tape from fraying over time.
- Use a zigzag stitch with a length of ~1 mm and a width of 5–6 mm. Position your work so the left needle position is on the fabric and the right needle position falls just beyond the raw edge of fabric in order to bind the edge.
- Press the exterior pieces of fabric away from the zipper and topstitch the fabric an ⅛" from the seam, securing the seam allowance underneath.
Lined Bags
- After sewing one side of the zipper to the exterior fabric, clip your lining fabric so that the lining and exterior fabrics are right sides together, matching the top and side edges. The zipper will be sandwiched in between both fabrics and should not be visible (note that the wrong size of the zipper will be against the right side of the lining fabric).
- Turn your work so that the exterior fabric is face up and use your previous stitch line for guidance (assuming it is straight and at the proper seam allowance). Make sure the raw edges of the exterior and lining fabrics stay aligned as you sew.
- Even though the zipper is not visible, you will still need to move the zipper slider out of the way following the steps above.
- Press both fabrics away from the zipper tape until the exterior and lining fabrics are wrong sides together and the zipper is revealed.
- Repeat the previous steps to attach the exterior and lining fabric to the other side of the zipper.
- If instructed to do so in the pattern, topstitch ⅛" from the zipper seam, securing the seam allowance underneath. If you used your regular presser foot with a left-adjusted needle to sew your zipper, you can place the presser foot in the same location but move the needle back to center to achieve a ⅛" seam allowance.
- If your pattern instructs you to topstitch the exterior fabric only, fold the lining fabric out of the way so you do not accidentally sew through it.
- If your pattern instructs you to topstitch through both the exterior fabric and lining, you may want to change your bobbin thread to match your lining. Be sure to tug the lining down away from the zipper so it doesn’t create a bubble that can impede the zipper from opening and closing.
Interior Zipper Pockets
Some Noodlehead bags and pouches use a different insertion technique for interior zipper pockets. The video below shows Anna from Noodlehead’s technique that can be applied to most bags (starts at 33:44).
Keep In Touch
Thanks very much for reading! If you’d like in-person support and instruction, please sign up for my classes at Modern Domestic or reach out to schedule a private lesson. If you have any questions, feedback, or corrections regarding this post, please don’t hesitate to contact me!
Further Reading
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