Probably my coziest make to date! I wore this fleece nonstop during a lil anniversary trip to Cape Disappointment & Astoria last month. This Pogonip Pullover in polar fleece was the perfect layer for fall days on the PNW coast—it cut the wind without making me feel overheated while out hiking or sitting by the campfire 🏕️
Pattern
- Pogonip Pullover by Friday Pattern Co. (PDF and Printed patterns available)
- Be sure to check out Friday Pattern Co.'s sew-alongs on YouTube for support
Fabric & Supplies
- Main fabric: Blackbird Fabrics Polar Fleece in Black and Deep Mauve (280 gsm / 8.25 oz)
- Black: lower front, sleeves, collar, and back hem elastic casing
- Deep Mauve: upper front, plackets, back, sleeve elastic casings, and front hem elastic casing
- Lining and pockets: Blackbird Fabrics Cotton Modal Jersey Knit in Black (200 gsm / 5.9 oz)
- Pellon SF101 Shape Flex Fusible Interfacing
- Blackbird Fabrics 1” Soft Knitted Elastic (my favorite)
- Four Dritz Heavy Duty Snaps (size 24 / 5/8”)
- Cat Nap Patch by Justine Gilbuena
- Schmetz 90/14 Jersey Needle
- Walking foot
Sizing & Modifications
My Measurements:
B: 41.5”, W: 33.5”, H: 43”; Height: 5’9”
B: 105, W: 85, H: 109 cm; Height: 175 cm
Cup Size: B (~2” or 5 cm difference between upper and full bust)
- My measurements put me squarely in the XL size, which has worked well for me for other Friday Pattern Co. patterns
- The pattern is drafted for a cup size B so no bust adjustments needed
- The pattern is drafted for a height of 5'6", which would usually mean I need to add length, but I compared the finished garment measurements with a fleece that I like the fit of and I thought the length would work without modification. After wearing for a while, I think I’d prefer and extra inch or two added to the lower front and back pieces.
- When I made my Ilford Jacket, I added 1.5” to the sleeves and they felt a bit too long, so for the Pogonip I decided to add only 1” to the sleeve length. Next time I’d add 1.5 or 2” to the sleeve length so that my wrists/forearms aren’t exposed when I bend my arms. The sleeves look short on the models in the sample photos too, so take that into account if that’s not your preferred fit.
- I decided to omit the packable pocket on the back since I was using bulkier fabric.
- I reduced the length of the hem elastic by 1” and the sleeve elastics by 1/2” because the recommended lengths were a bit too loose for my taste.
- I used snaps instead of buttons for the placket and decided to add a fourth closure. To do this, I positioned the top and bottom snaps as suggested in the pattern, then divided the distance between them by three so the two middle buttons would be evenly spaced.
- I added the sweetest lil patch to the left chest.
Sewing Notes
- I LOVE this polar fleece! It’s super cozy, easy to sew with, and cuts the wind well without making me overheat.
- I used a walking foot with a zigzag stitch (1.5 mm wide x 2.5 mm long) for my construction stitches. Once I was happy with the alignment, I went over the seams again with my serger (blade engaged).
- I ended up using the same zigzag stitch for all topstitching because they’re not really visible through the nap of the fleece.
- This was my first time sewing welt pockets and it was tricky, especially with stretchy fabric! I should have been more precise and mindful when marking my cut and stitch lines, but everything turned out okay. Friday Pattern Co.'s sew-alongs on YouTube were essential—I don’t think I could have figured it out from the instructions/illustrations alone.
- Adding the patch: I shortened my stitch length to 1.0–1.5 mm, used a clear presser foot for visibility, and went very slowly. I started at the top, making sure that I got the positioning just right (be careful as using too many pins will prevent the patch from laying flat), then smoothed out the fabric as I sewed to avoid puckers.
Notes for Next Time
- Add 1–2” to the lower front and back pieces.
- Lengthen the sleeves another 1/2” to 1” (1.5–2” total).
- Find a cozier fabric to use for the pocket bags and lining.
- I wish the pocket bags were bigger—they’re not very comfortable to keep my hands in (maybe I just have large hands??) and they’re a bit too small for my phone to fit without worrying about it falling out. I plan to look into how to best enlarge the pocket bags or add a kangaroo pocket for my next Pogonip. Adding length to the pullover should give me a little more room too.
Keep in Touch
Thanks very much for reading! If you’d like in-person support and instruction, please sign up for my classes at Modern Domestic or reach out to schedule a private lesson. If you have any questions, feedback, or corrections regarding this post, please don’t hesitate to contact me!
Further Reading
quilted trick-or-treat tote pattern
quilted trick-or-treat tote pattern
October 12, 2024
freesewingpatternkids
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