Fabric

• Blackbird Fabrics Cotton Modal Jersey Knit in Black (200 gsm / 5.9 oz)

Sizing & Modifications

• I chose size F based on my upper bust measurement as recommended by the pattern.
• View A is drafted for a B-cup, so no bust modifications were needed.
• I removed 7/8" from the bottom after trying on the top. I could have shortened it a bit more. I usually have to lengthen my tops since I'm 5'9"–5'10" but this length worked well for a slightly cropped tank to wear with high-waist bottoms.

Sewing Notes

• I struggled with the binding more than I expected. The first stitch line was straightforward, but I found it really tough to sew the second line without puckering and bunching.
• I turned the bottom hem up 1/2" then 1" so I'd have three layers of fabric to hem (to help prevent tunneling), then used a stretch twin needle (4.0/75) using a 1" seam allowance. I should have used a 3/4" or 7/8" seam allowance instead, since some stitches of the top line ended up above the folded hem on the single layer of fabric, causing a bit of tunneling. Whoops!

For Future Makes

• Look for tips on how to bind the neckline and armholes without bunching. I'm going to see if Fit For Knits has any tips for preventing this.
• Be more mindful when stitching hem with twin needle!

Additional Supplies

• Blackbird Fabrics 2" Soft Knitted Elastic
• Merchant & Mills 3/8" Recycled Drawstring

Sizing & Modifications

• I used View B: Double Dart Front
• Since there’s an elastic waist, I used my hip measurement to choose my size. I was closest to (but a bit over) a size 14 but the finished garment measurements indicated that there would be plenty of ease in the hips. I didn't size down since my fabric has no stretch.
• I added 1" both above and below the knee darts (2" increase total) since I am 5'9"–5'10" and the pattern is drafted for 5'6." This overall length is good, but I think I'll need to fine-tune where I add the length to get the knee darts to fall just where I want them.
• I left off the front knee panels since these will be hiking rather than climbing pants, I don't need the additional durability, and I overheat easily.
• I flipped the waistband so the drawstring is on the outside, not inside, of the waistband since I have sensory sensitivities.
• I added the optional patch pocket to the back of the right leg at the suggested location but it seems quite low and I haven’t used it much.

Sewing Notes

• The knee darts might seem a lil daunting to start with, but they make all the difference in terms of mobility.
• These pants take a bit longer to sew because you topstitch most of the seams twice, but the back yoke and topstitching details make it look very professional. Make sure to take your time and nail the seam intersections.
• I LOVE the inseam pockets. They are the perfect size, super functional, and so comfy to put my hands in. I don't even mind not having back pockets because these are wonderful. I did not expect the pockets to be my favorite part of this pattern lol.
• I really appreciate that this pattern is gender-neutral and provides options for both a mid rise and a higher rise, but I wish it had given more guidance as to how to successfully make the high rise version. The pattern says that a common adjustment for folks making the high rise fit is a full seat adjustment to prevent the waistband from dipping when squatting, but there wasn't guidance on how much adjustment might be needed. I read through all the Instagram posts I could find, but no one who did a full seat adjustment clarified how much they added to the back rise. I ultimately decided not to do the full seat adjustment since I often need a flat seat adjustment in pants. I was hoping they'd cancel each other out, but alas, the pants dip a lot when squatting, which is a bummer. I think I also need to increase the rise in general since I'm tall (5'9"–5'10") and even when standing the waistband don't reach my waist, but I'll have to figure out how much to add to the front rise vs. the back rise. I'll need to do more fitting that I was hoping to finally get that elusive pair of outdoorsy high rise pants.
• I found the illustrations difficult to see, even when zoomed in all the way on my iPad (then they're pixelated). I wasn't always sure what they were trying to show me, which I think was due to the illustrations being small with thin lines and fairly low contrast. Making the stitching lines in question a thicker line weight, bold, or a different color and increasing the resolution of the images would go a long way to increase their readability, especially for folks who have impaired vision.
• I initially finished the waistband using no-roll elastic like the pattern called for, but I found it to be a bit overkill for my needs (maybe I'd feel differently if wearing these under a climbing harness). It was really stiff and as a result I found it harder to insert into the waistband and more difficult to topstitch. It wasn't nearly as comfortable or supple to wear as my preferred elastic, even after using a steamy iron to try and help the elastic recover post-sewing. I ended up ripping out all the topstitching and redoing the waistband with my favorite soft knitted elastic. I also decided to butt up the edges of the elastic together and zigzag over them several times instead of overlapping the elastic and sewing an X in a box to reduce some bulk. I'm glad I did it because they're now much more comfy than the Topo shorts I made.

For Future Makes

• Try a cotton canvas with a bit of stretch to better approximate the feel of the Topo Designs Dirt Pants.
• Increase the rise so they're actually high rise on my tall frame.
• Perform a full seat adjustment so the waistband doesn't dip when squatting.
• Taper the lower leg opening slightly so there is less fabric volume at my ankle if using a more structured fabric like canvas, denim, or twill.
• Switch out the flat elastic in the bottom hems for cording and a toggle for more functional cinching.
• Skip the faux fly topstitching detail—I prefer a more minimal front.
• Leave off the optional patch pocket.

Sizing & Modifications

• View and Size selection same as above.
• I skipped the faux fly topstitching detail for a minimal front.
• I flipped the waistband so the drawstring is on the outside, not inside, of the waistband since I have sensory sensitivities (please excuse the super short drawstring in the photos—I didn't have time to get more before leaving on a camping trip 🙃).
• I cut out the fabric at the lengthen/shorten line above the knee darts on the pants pattern, constructed the shorts, trimmed them to my desired length after trying them on, and hemmed them by folding the bottom edge under 1/2" then another 1" and edgestitching in place. Don’t do this unless you’re making Bermuda-length shorts!! I forgot to account for the seam allowance and excess ease in the thigh you need for shorts, so they're a bit tight around the thighs when I squat.

For Future Makes

• Try making a pair in a cotton canvas with a bit of stretch (for comfort) and a lightweight performance fabric. The twill I used seems durable but it’s too heavy for summer heatwaves.
• Increase the rise so they're actually high rise on my tall frame.
• Perform a full seat adjustment so the waistband doesn't dip when squatting.
• Add a bit more ease in the thigh and flare out the seam allowance for folded hem so they're not too tight around the thigh when squatting or lifting up my leg.
• Swap out the no-roll elastic for my favorite soft knitted elastic (see Topo pants notes).

Additional Supplies

• Five 25 mm Granite Buttons from Pigeon Wishes
• Two 17 mm buttons for cuffs (25 mm buttons felt too big)
• Scrap of Atelier Brunette bias tape edgestitched into a hanging loop

Sizing & Modifications

• My measurements put me squarely in the XL size, which has worked well for me for other Friday Pattern Co. patterns. I chose the view with placket sleeves.
• The pattern is drafted for a cup size B so no bust adjustments needed.
• The pattern is drafted for 5'6", which would usually mean I need to add length since I’m 5’9.” I compared the finished garment measurements with a boxy jacket that I like the fit of and decided the center front length of the regular Ilford should work without adding length.
• The instructions recommend modifying the sleeve length if the distance from your armpit to wrist is much different from 18." Mine was between 19–19.5" so I added 1.5" to the length (this ended up being a bit too long).
• A common complaint for this pattern is that the sleeve diameter around the bicep and especially the forearm is too tight when buttoned, and there was a BIG difference between the finished garment measurements and the jacket I was comparing it to. I followed the instructions for adjusting the Ilford for a cis male body and slashed the sleeve pattern piece vertically on the side of the sleeve with the placket and spread the bottom edge 2.5." Remember to only slash up to the stitch line (not all the way to the pattern edge) so you don’t change the length of the seam on the sleeve cap. I added a small pleat when sewing so the bottom edge of the sleeve matched the length of the cuff. The increased sleeve circumference feels great, but the cuff is still tighter than I'd like.
• I added a hanging loop at center back (wrong side of fabric) when attaching the collar.

Sewing Notes

The sewing was relatively quick and easy for a jacket, especially since I finished all seams with a serger. Friday Pattern Co.'s sew-alongs on YouTube are very helpful for remembering how to sew plackets and for general moral support.

I didn't love the armhole/side seam construction—it's perhaps simpler than sewing the side seams separately and then setting the sleeve in to the bodice (like you do in the Midway Jacket), but the seams feel bulky at the armpit. Luckily there's enough ease thanks to the dropped shoulder so it's not too annoying. I thought it was a bit tricky to get the seams aligned and to "push the seam allowance out of the way" while sewing though, so it didn't feel that much easier.

Pocket Placement

• Lower Rectangular Pockets: I placed the inner side edges 2" away from the placket seam line and the bottom edges 2" up from the bottom edge of the jacket.
• Upper Rectangular Pockets: I placed the inner side edges 2" away from the placket seam line and the bottom edges 4" up from the top edge of the lower pockets
• I added a Pencil Pocket to each Upper Rectangular Pocket before attaching them to the bodice; I positioned the pencil pockets 1/4" from the side and bottom folded edges, with the pencil pocket on the side closest to the placket (not armpit).

Notes for Next Time

• The sleeve length is now a bit too long—I need to remove about half an inch.
• I like the added sleeve circumference, but the cuff feels too tight. Next time I’ll increase the cuff size to match the length of the lower sleeve (i.e., remove the pleat) and/or try the next size up.
• Finish the seams in a cuter way (bias tape instead of serging?) since they are quite conspicuous when putting on and taking off the jacket.
• Remember to use a hump jumper when stitching buttonholes near the cuff and collar or else the buttonhole foot gets stuck and makes a hot mess.
• Definitely add the hanging loop because it's super practical!
• Try snaps instead of buttons for the cuffs.
• Try dual opening lower pockets like those in the Midway Jacket.

Fabric Notes

• I used the cotton twill for all main fabric pieces and for the lining of the brim. Using the twill for both the main and lining sides of the brim kept it from being too floppy.
• I used the cotton voile interfaced with Pellon SF 101 for the lining top and lining band as a cute accent and to have a softer fabric in contact with my hair.

Sizing & Modifications

My head size is 23.5", which puts me exactly in the middle of sizes M and L, so I cut out my pattern pieces right in the middle of the two size lines and it worked out great.

Sewing Notes

I was having an impossible time attaching the band to the top and brim pieces and was feeling super discouraged. When I finally went back to check the pattern pieces I realized that I accidentally traced the brim twice and labeled one of them incorrectly as the band—no wonder they wouldn't fit! It was entirely the wrong shape! I think I need to enact a rule that if I can’t get a step right after two tries, I probably need to step back and double check my previous work.

Once I figured out my mistake, the hat sewed up super quickly. The final topstitching securing the top to the brim has a tiny pleat that I wasn't able to resolve even after unpicking twice... but oh well. It might be worth stay-stitching the curves next time before sewing, but I also handled the fabric SO much because of my band piece mistake which could have caused it to stretch out more than usual.

Notes for Next Time

• Add a loop inside for easy hanging.
• Substitute a silky fabric for the lining top and band to prevent hat hair.