Pattern Notes
It was such a pleasure to test the Basecamp Set—Ellie from Road Trip Pattern Co. is organized, responsive, kind, and a lovely human to work with ✨
This pattern is a cold weather baselayer set (up to 64” hip) with a bunch of thoughtful design details to reduce bulk, distribute friction, and ensure range of motion. The long sleeve crew neck top features an armhole gusset, offset shoulder yoke, and optional thumbhole cuffs. The shoulder yoke and armhole gusset really do wonders—I have full range of motion and no pulling across the chest or back. The leggings have an inseam crotch gusset and ARE SO COMFY. Every time I put on the leggings I think “HOLY SH*T I MADE THESE.”
This is a great project to practice new construction techniques using a serger and coverstitch machine (but it can also be made entirely on a regular sewing machine). Like all of Ellie’s patterns, the Basecamp Set provides helpful guidance on choosing the right fabric and sizes, preparing and cutting fabric, sewing with athletic knits, etc., all of which helps make the pattern accessible to sewists of all skill levels. I think the determining factor for the difficulty level of this pattern is fabric choice—more on that below.
Fabric & Supplies
- Blackbird Fabrics Layer Up Lyocell Wool Blend Jersey in Jasper and Black (210 gsm / 6.2 oz)
- 4-way stretch, 100% cross-grain and 55% along grain-line
- Blackbird Fabrics 1.5” Soft Knitted Elastic (my favorite)
- 1/2” wide stay tape
- 1/2” wide twill tape for back neckline binding
- Maxi Lock Stretch Serger Nylon Thread for looper threads that are soft against your skin
- Walking foot
- Schmetz Jersey needle 70/10
- Schmetz Twin needle 4,0/75
Fabric Notes
- I chose a 4-way stretch lyocell, wool, and spandex blend jersey for moisture absorption, temperature regulation, and a super soft hand. It is SO SOFT AND COZY and I would happily wear this fabric all day long. But it is also SO STRETCHY AND UNRULY 🫠
- Examples of unruliness:
- Easily sucked down into the sewing machine and promptly chewed up
- Any time I tried to unpick a seam I ended up ripping a hole in the fabric
- Did I mention it is SO STRETCHY? Everything grew, a lot.
- I’d recommend this fabric for simpler garments and/or patient sewists.
- Be sure to stay stitch or use stay tape! I used stay tape for the neckline of my top but totally forgot the waist of the leggings, so it stretched out during construction. As a result, I have some fabric folds where I attached the waistband. I might try to redo it someday to see if I can ease it in more neatly, but at the moment it’s good enough.
- I recommend cutting this fabric single-layer with a rotary cutter.
- You will absolutely want to use a walking foot and a super stretch (lightning) stitch or serger.
- The black leggings are sheer when you bend over. Both the Jasper and Black colorways are opaque enough for a top, so long as you don’t have too much negative ease.
- P.S. the care instructions are hand wash cool and lay flat to dry.
Sizing & Modifications
- I chose View A (top with thumbhole cuffs) and View D (leggings with self-fabric waistband)
- I fit squarely into the size large for both the top and leggings with no need to grade between sizes. Since large fell within the B-Cup size range, no bust adjustment was needed.
- The pattern is drafted for a height of 5’6”. I recommend checking the finished garment measurements to help decide if you want to make any length adjustments.
- I made no modifications to the top, which is unusual since I usually have to add about ~1.5” to the body and sleeves because I’m 5’9.” The pattern was altered after testing to better reflect the base height by removing 1” from the body length, removing 0.5” from the sleeve length, adding a bit of width to the bicep, and slightly reducing the ease at the hip to better balance the slimmer fit at the bust.
- For the leggings, I added 1" at the hip line to lengthen the rise. I also added 1" at the knee line and 0.5" at the hem to lengthen the leg so the knee and calf hit at the correct spot; the hem ended up right above my ankle bone. Finally, I added 0.25" at the inseam of the calf (tapered to nothing at the knee and hem) since a few testers found the calves to be a bit snug.
- After the testing period ended, I decided to remove 3” from the bottom hem of the top (not pictured). I don’t need full coverage over my bum and I think the shorter length will be more versatile for tucking into jeans and hiking pants without extra fabric.
Sewing Notes
- Basting: super stretch/lightning stitch (2.5 mm long x 1.0 mm wide)
- I usually baste knits on my sewing machine first and then serge over them, but I eventually realized it was easier to only use the serger for construction with this fabric, even if I had to seam rip.
- Construction: serger with wooly nylon in the looper threads
- Topstitching/hemming: I used a twin needle (2.5 mm stitch length) and had some tunneling because the fabric was so thin. Next time I might try using some Heat n Bond in the hem to better stabilize it.
- I recommend taking the time to add in the optional topstitching, especially on the leggings. It really elevates the finished object.
- Sewing the thumbhole cuffs were a bit of a mind bender, but Ellie has since made a lil video tutorial to help you. They’re very cozy and I recommend trying them even if you’re feeling intimidated.
Notes for Next Time
- Try a more stable knit for an easier sewing experience 🙃
- Remember to add stay tape to the neckline, shoulder seams, AND front and back yoke pieces of the leggings so the waistline doesn’t grow.
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